I think it’s that too. Everyone’s first comment every time is buy a NP pretty much.
Which is really funny given that the NP units are just about sold out everywhere but on eBay.
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My bet is on the fact that the Tablo apps on all the devices have some code that lets it recover from these bad areas. When cast to a chromecast tho, it’s a direct connection to the file I believe so there is no helping software. Fixing the way files are saved is most likely the root of all this in my opinion. Take out the hard drive & mine will play fine at 8Mbps. Totally guessing btw. 
@Spunky03 Google will prolly release a new version or replacement product after the 18th’s I/O.
To rule out UHF/ VHF dropouts as a source of the problem, why not put a momentary disconnect switch on the input coax line, and push it once or twice while casting to see if that replicates the problem?
If it is a failure in error correction, that would seem to be the easiest way to replicate momentary signal loss. (unless you can arrange testing during inclement weather, or some other case that will induce a temporary instance of macro-blocking)
I know in my setup the VHF channels tend to get spotty during bad weather…(I blame my broadcaster for insufficient area coverage)
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I got the NP to solve Roku problems, but did work on the flashing green S7/S7 Edge problem and.posted my work around. Still waiting on Tablo.
I wouldn’t be surprised if a new NP isn’t in the works since they are impossible to find.
@beastman
Speaking of… I saw Plex do that today on my S7 Edge!
It was playing a Tablo file I used SurLaTablo.py to get off the device (since casting is broken) but it only did it while the ui was on top of the video & only flashed green a few times before I hit the cast button. Still thought it was odd tho.
Also, It was one of them rare times I hit play before I hit the cast button. Normally hit the cast button first in Plex.
My experience with Chromecast was that any momentary loss of OTA signal would cause the system to drop out immediately which resulted in many lost or partial recordings. Not so with other devices I’ve tried. I now have a solid signal since installing a good directional outdoor antenna but still use NP with remote as it is much smoother and much more convenient.
B:
Ebay. Much overpriced and mostly used.
Of course once you get past $150 shipped, the Shield becomes the better option.
Since this is a “Chromecast” thread, I wonder if anyone with a Vizio “Smart Cast” has related their experience - I am under the impression that it is just an enhanced “onboard Chromecast”…
I’ll throw in my CC experience. We use a Roku 3 for the main TV with really no problems. I also have Chromecasts on 3 tvs - living room alongside the Roku, the bedroom and deck. Everything on my network is wireless. We stream live tv and recordings to all 3 CC (not at the same time although I hear it can be done), from both PC and android devices with very little stuttering UNLESS there’s something else using resources on the PC. Then we get a bunch. Note, my PC is 7 years old and running Win7 so not real robust. Streaming live or recordings from my S5 is fine with my only complaint the FF slider is so sensitive, it’s tough getting it exactly to the right spot. BUT, I also stream live tv from my old 2011 Moto Razr with very few problems albeit VERY slow to respond. I had golf on my Razr on the deck this weekend streaming from Tablo/router through several walls and then back to the router to stream back to the deck on the CC. And get this: this is all going through an HDMI to analog RCA converter so I can use my 1998 analog 13 inch tv (only white and yellow inputs) to watch my Chromecast outside! I love my Tablo!
Hi js98, I use a Netgear Nighthawk X6 R8000. I paid waaay too much for it but it has performed very well. Click on my orange “I” for my system setup. In lieu of a signature function, this works well for folks to see how others are succeeding at this whole thing 
Hi @IllBeDarned,
Thanks for the information. Nice of you to post your configuration.
Was the R8000 affected by the issue reported by @Mark1 and @Warunicorn on the thread “I need to reboot every week. Any idea why? (RESOLVED)”? I have the Netgear R7000 and seemed to have been affected.
In general I like the netgear lineup and make use of the simple DLNA server feature it provides. I use Allcast from android and ios to stream movies to chromecast. I use one of the excellent transfer software packages posted on tablo forum to put movies on the server (which all works reliably btw). Thus I can actually watch Tablo recordings on my ATV4 using the VLC app. I also have also found the Readycloud feature to remote access to work files to be handy. For remote viewing however TabloConnect works really well.
I have considered upgrading to R8000 but it is a bit pricey. The triband feature is not worth as much to me since my high bandwidth links are wired ethernet. For instance the tablo is wired and both chromecasts are wired ethernet. I am old school, copper is the only way to go for high speed reliable communications. But the R7000 firmware issue might be the +1 to move forward with router technology. I want to be able to access the newer server features Netgear rolls into their products. I am particularly concerned about staying up to date with security improvements.
So what rev of the R8000 firmware are you running? Is it the latest? And, have you utilized much of the server capabilities Netgear includes in their product? (DLNA, iTunes server, ReadyNAS, ReadyCloud,…?)
Thanks for sharing your configuration information and your experiences. Very helpful.
I haven’t had any issues with the R8000 and apply new firmware as it reminds me - I’m at V1.0.3.4_1.1.2 now and cruising. I bought this one after reading through several comparisons and really like the range. Wired isn’t an option in much of my old house so I depend on the wireless. I really don’t use all the bells and whistles, just wanted a powerful broadcaster to reach all the corners. I use 2.4 on the Chromecasts as it goes through the walls better and reaches the deck just fine. The 5 MHz band is dedicated to our mobile devices and we do have three wired devices right next to the router - a laptop, a weather station and security cam dvr). Overall, we’ve got 13 wireless devices connected and with the 125 Mbps download speed, it seems to work very well.
I need a big beefy WiFi router some day. I have way WAY to many WiFi devices in the house. It’s why I connect everything wired that I possibly can.
Hi @riffy,
Going back to one of your original observations: “Another note… Tablo app doesn’t always stay running. Causing no way to control the video being cast after this happens. You also loose where you where with no resume when you restart it.” This is my primary difficulty. The wired communication between Tablo and chromecast seems fine, it chugs along without a hiccup. I gather from @IllBeDarned feedback that he does not experience this issue. - Please confirm @IllBeDarned so that I don’t spin cycles needlessly.
In my scenario the app looses association with the Tablo/chromecast pair or simply crashes. I have to restart the app. It usually recovers its position but sometimes not. The first hour of use is normally good. After an hour is when things start to degrade. Right now my troubleshootng interest is on; 1) tablo app, 2) R7000 router, or 3) the communications between them. Given the issue that caused me to downgrade the router f/w, I am most interested in this component.
I had been thinking about experimenting with DD-WRT router firmware on an old netgear WDR-3400 router. This may be the time.
Alright, as promised I’m testing the Chromecast now. I’m Casting Jackie Robinson that was recorded at 720P on a Proscan 32"
Tablo 4 Wired
Comcast Technicolor tc805c Wireless G/N 2.4Ghz
WD My Passport Ultra 1TB
Samsung Galaxy Note 10.1 on Android 5.1 (I hate Android)
I’m about 15 minutes into it now. Picture looks good. What do you want me to try? I tried casting Live TV and it just sits there and spins and spins. The Jackie Robinson PBS Special is looking pretty good though.
Never seen it recover. It usually gets stuck in a loop of restarting from the beginning if you hit any button.
Oh and the Chromecast is 1st Gen
To be honest I’m not concerned about it working with low bitrates. It’s stated to work with chromecast not only work at low settings. Well… unless you go searching for that one blog that @TabloSupport pointed out. rolls eyes