Antenna Technical Tips

Not much less than the HDHomeRun and would need to be a bit tech savvy to get it to work, BUT, I have considered picking up the “Winegard SensarPro Signal Strength Meter”.

It shows signal strength for any one channel, or scans for others with an optional amp…

The problem is that it is meant to go in RVs, so it is powered by direct wire 12V DC… Meaning it cant be used out of the box as is, would have to wire in a AC -> DC converter or a battery pack.

I planned to pick up a hobby box of some type to create a portable meter / tool.

Of course, once you buy the device, plus the accessories to make it work outside an RV, its almost as expensive as the HDHome Run, but still a lot more portable.

$71 new but Amazon has them as a warehouse deal for $56 (I have seen them as low as $45)…

@Daniel454

I have one. It’s made to fit inside a wall electrical outlet box.

I put it in a plastic one, so I could easily drill holes to mount the female coax connectors.

I used an old 12vdc adapter from a dsl router.

I found it cheap (at one time) on eBay.

However, the HDHomerun app on my android phone does a great job also.

Chas

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The reason those are meant for an in-wall mount with 12VDC power is that they’re designed to use in an RV to help aim the rooftop antenna. If you have any RV shops nearby check with them to see if they have any salvage units.

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AWESOME, i didn’t think to check eBay… MANY years ago I bought things from eBay almost every week, its a lot harder to ge a good deal now though. Ill add this to the watch list though! Thanks!

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I got my HD Homerun dual very cheap on ebay … I mean like crazy cheap…($35) but to make the magic work with an HD homerun you need a smartphone app that links with the homerun on your network so you can see the signal strength in realtime as you are on your roof farting around with the antenna…


Also having your smartphone’s built in compass show you the right direction to aim your antenna in is without a doubt very handy when you are up on the roof

screenshots from http://genhelp.com/Generally_Helpful_Software/Signal_GH.html
(there are other apps out there on both iOS and Android that do this … I just like this app it seemed to do all that I wanted)

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I think oversaturated signal is an unlikely event in this instance. Inserting a splitter will attenuate the signal some 50% and should indicate if said problem exists.

As promised, HD Frequency antenna is good, almost as good as Wingard FL5500A. I get everything except the weak channel 17 and channel 62 just using the HD Frequency which is directly on the TV. The Tablo has the best antenna, which is the Winegard.

I have to be honest I really do not find antenna selection or installation particularly a black art. Use antenna web to find the direction and frequencies used by your local broadcasters as well as distance. Select and antenna accordingly. Bring a small television or whatever to measure signal strength. Move the antenna a few degrees back and forth to find the best average signal strength for the stations you want and then lock the antenna down. Not much of a black art in my eyes but it does take a little homework.

If you are in a hilly terrain of have limited space (like me) on the roof having a “small tv” with you can be difficult to very problematic.

For those interested in really tweaking their antenna, it could help to invest in a usb tuner to use as a signal calibration device.

The wintv software includes a signal meter that reports signal-to- noise levels, important in determining signal quality .

For instance, my brother moved his attic antenna just 6 inches and the S/N on his desired channel went from 16 to 28.

Only ~ $60 on sale.

Screen shots of signal meter:

I bought the ChannelMaster 8-bay antenna and originally installed it in the attic, using existing coax from the satellite dish to get the signal down to the Tablo. I live in a hilly and heavily wooded area, and the towers are 25-30 miles nearly due east (around 87*). The signals were mostly fine, but would become unwatchable during certain times of day, whenever somebody was standing in the kitchen, or whenever the neighbor ran his chainsaw.

I blew insulation into the attic a few weeks back and removed the antenna from the attic to do so. Ended up mounting the antenna on a 20’ mast, anchored to the side of the house. I left the bracket loose enough on the mast that I can go outside and turn the antenna if a particular channel isn’t coming in well that day. I should’ve installed it this way the first time, because it has worked great! The signals also come in stronger now that the antenna is out of the attic.

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. If you could only believe published antenna specs.

The compact Stellar Labs has specs similar to the Winegard but costs only around $53 vs around $125 for the Winegard.

I have the Stellar Labs model and would like to have the absolute best ( and keep from going up on the roof) but it looks like I have reached a stopping point.

If you want the absolute best, why is price an issue? …and is similar, regarding specs really absolutely best?

In my vernacular, absolute best in antenna terms would be an antenna with verifiable specs head and shoulders above all others, with gain at least by 3 db or more over all others at all tv frequencies, and reasonably priced for the composition of materials.

It seems to me most antennas on the market top out at about 14 db gain without an amplifier. I would be looking for one with with 17-18 db gain or better. Of course that much gain may not even be theoretically possible. It would be nice to know if there is in reality a practical maximum gain upper limit for antennas at tv frequencies as a reference.

If one could believe published specs, if a $53 antenna has verifiable gain, bandwidth, and rejection values within a db or so of a $125 antenna, I can see no reason why anyone would pay that much more for just a marginal performance increase.

Finally, I wish there were an independent third party lab that could verify manufacturers published specs and put all antennas on a level playing field.

Oh, man, black art is right…

I started with a cheap set of RCA rabbit ears with a UHF loop, then a Mohu Leaf- but for indoor usage, my house is a stucco exterior (over a wire mesh) and lathe+plaster interior, without a window access in the direction of the local broadcast towers that are 20 miles away. It’s like living in a Faraday cage.

I went to the attic. I tried a Channel Master CM-4220 bay. Better than the indoor, but the reception in general was still pretty bad. I relocated to the roof, adding a mast and tripod arrangement. The CM-4220 was better than in the attic, but it didn’t do well with two VHF stations (one is a CBS affiliate, the other is PBS). Channel Master’s own support is confused on if that antenna supports hi-band VHF…so…

Next was a Winegard Flatwave 6550- more of a multi-directional, amplified unit. Better, but still spotty reception, with lots of dropouts. It should be noted that the towers are in the same compass direction (within 5 degrees of each other) and the same 20 mile distance- so not like I was trying to pull in signals from opposite locations… Next was the ANT751- even better, but inconsistent on two stations. I then started focusing on the problem stations, looking at signal strength movements on the reporting from various televisions. The path to the towers from my roof takes me through a neighbor’s ~70’ high sycamore tree, about 50’ away, and as wide. The signal bounce and reception issues were multipath related (the reception is rock solid in the winter, but spring summer and fall is another matter).

Not knowing that there is no real antenna cure for multipath issues, I started focusing on the coax plant- I re-ran coax leads to shorten them up, updating splitters (and removing some), mapping out insertion losses on each lead. I torqued down all of my coax connectors, and added terminators to any open ports in my plant. I added a channel master Titan 16dB preamp at the antenna- but at that range and distance I was likely overdriving, and it wasn’t curing the multipath issues.

I went to a higher gain yagi, the Channel Master CM-2018, and added a rotor box to save on trips up to the roof. Still suffering with multipath issues.

Finally, I removed the pre-amp. I have some very long coax runs from the roof, but I made up for those losses using a distribution amplifier as a powered splitter. I went back to the Antenna751, and rotating it slightly off angle, I was able to minimize the reception issues from multipath, as the likely weaker reception lobe path of that antenna helps to reduce the risk of detecting signals coming through the offending tree. I’m resigned to periodically having to move the antenna a bit to compensate on windier days, but at least the rotor box works well.

I’d also note the issues are more noticeable on the Tablo and Tivo tuners (I have both DVR systems in use- that’s another story), but much less of an issue when going directly to the TV. That said, while there is no information to support this from Tablo, when I changed from the old 4-tuner model to a 2 tuner Tablo 64, the reception is much stronger from the same antenna setup.

The Ant751 is a reasonable solution for me, but I’ve been round the map in trying to find the best solution.

Great idea!

But for those less technically-inclined, or with less free time/energy, couldn’t you just purchase one of these “FM Dipoles” and attach it to a splitter/combiner along with something like that ANT751?

Since the FM band lives between VHF Low (Chan 2-6) and VHF High (Chan 7-13), wouldn’t this be a good compromise? After all, old skool rabbit ears are a compromise, too, and they work pretty well from Chans 2-13 and FM…

https://www.amazon.com/Fancasee-Antenna-Connector-Coaxial-Receiver/dp/B07BW3Q794/

Just seems like a LOT less aggravation.

Splitter/Combiner:

https://www.amazon.com/Splitter-Combiner-Bi-Directional-Coaxial-Antenna/dp/B00UVWRN98/

This web site seems to do fair comparisons of tv antennas via computer modeling.

http://www.hdtvprimer.com/ANTENNAS/Comparing.html

It’s a nice page, maybe a bit dated, but I know I used it a long time ago before getting my antenna.

The only problem with the site you mentioned is that they did not test any of the Antop antennas. I recently replaced a 30 year old yagi antenna with the Antop AT-400BV and I was pleasantly surprised with the results. My SNR didn’t improve at all, but since installing the Antop antenna, the occasional pixelation I had been seeing seems to have completely disappeared.

The reason I replaced the yagi with the Antop was that the yagi was approximately 15’ long and 9’ wide. The antenna was mounted on top of tower approximately 37’ above the ground. During severe weather a nearby tree could hit the antenna and had broken off several of the longest rods on the back end of the antenna. The design of the Antop antenna is very compact and should hopefully be out of the reach of the tree.

Ok, I get it, you make valid points. Seems like there’s an abundance of marketing for free OTA HD TV, pointing out a government mandate… so get out HD antenna!